Monet and Lace

This post is not just about this afghan but more so for the border but since it is here I will start with the information for making it.  First of all it is made from my Basic Round Ripple Afghan Pattern which you can find on this blog here
This one was made with a size I-9 Susan Bates hook and Red Heart Super Saver yarn in the following colors and amounts:  Monet (4 – 5 OZ skeins), Light Periwinkle (1 – 7 OZ skein) and Medium Purple (2 – 7 OZ  skeins) 
As written it measures about 66 inches point to point

Tip:  I make my afghans with a NO DYE LOT yarn so I do not have to worry about getting more if I run out or decide to make a matching pillow.

Rounds 1 through 5 Monet

Rounds 6 & 7 Medium Purple
for the rest I worked the variegated color rounds in groups of 6 and the solid color rounds in groups of 3 till I got the size I wanted.  You may choose your own color sequence.
When your project is as large as you planned it is time to decided on the border you want. For this afghan I could not decide on a “V” stitch border or a shell stitch border so why not have both ?



BORDER
Border Stitches used are
 “V” stitch: (dc in stitch, ch 1, dc in same stitch).
Shell Stitch: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc all in same stitch).
Wide Shell Stitch (2dc, ch 2, 2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all in the    same stitch        Total 6 dc and two ch 2 spaces)
Rnd 1.  The first round work. (“V” stitch in the starting st, sk 2 sts, “V” stitch in the next st) around. Select your starting stitch so you will be sure to have a “V” st in each point.
NOTES: To determine which is your starting stitch, count from the point to the valley.  The valley at the bottom of the point is the place to make any adjustments.
This example shows 8 stitches at the valley.  1’s & 2’s are all skipped stitches, but if you try to add a “V” stitch in the designated spot it will be too wide and not lay flat. So we use double crochet instead.  That is one half on each side.  /\  This is just a method of tweaking  your stitches to make them fit.  The center 1/2 are the stitches you always skip at the bottom of the point.

The second round is where you set up the alternate pattern of stitches. On this round all points all must have a *Wide shell stitch. 
Rnd 2: Count from the point to the valley to determine if you need to start with a “V” stitch or a shell stitch.  Working in the existing “V” stitches, alternating 1 shell st with 1 “V” st to the point. At the point work a Wide Shell Stitch (2dc, ch 2, 2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) then continue alternating “V” sts and Shell Stitches around
This means if you have a “V” stitch as the last stitch before the point, and a wide shell stitch in the point, you will have a “V” stitch as the first stitch after the point.

The rest of the rounds will be worked “V” stitch over “V” st and Shell over Shell exceptions being the points, where extra stitches must be arranged so it will lay flat.

Rnd 3: Work alternate stitch pattern to the point, In each point you will work a (shell stitch in the first 2ch space, ch 2, then work a shell stitch in the next 2ch space), then continuing around as per established pattern.
Rnd 4:  Work in established pattern (“V” stitch over “V” st and Shell over Shell) to the point. In the point work a shell in each of the three 2 ch spaces. (shell in shell, shell between shells and shell in the 2nd shell.  Continue pattern sequence around.

Rnd 5 
Working in pattern sequence work final round with “V” st over each “V”st and shell over each shell.  I like to work my final round of “V” and Shell stitches with a picot stitch.
Another option is to work them plain.  Your choice.