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Thursday, July 11, 2013

So Simple Box Stitch Shawl

This is a simple shawl pattern, similar to the popular Granny Square Triangle Shawl.  Made with the Box Stitch Pattern it does not display all of the holes of a true Granny Square Stitch.  It is worked with worsted weight yarn and it is what I would consider a very generous size shawl for those of us who dislike bare arms and want lots of coverage. 

IMG_4518 Materials:

16 oz any soft worsted Weight yarn  color of your choice

Susan Bates U.S. Size I – 9 crochet hook

Size approximately 80" wide by 40" deep including border


Row 1:  chain 6, sl st in first st to form ring.  Or start with Adjustable Loop
Row 2:  chain 3, 3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc in ring, ch 1, turn ( 8 dc)
Row 3:  sc in space between first 2 dc, chain 3, sc in ch 2 space, ch 3, sc in same space, (point made) ch 3, sc between last 2 dc, turn.
Box Stitch Shawl
Row 4:  ch 3, 3 dc in first single crochet, (this adds a new cluster to the beginning of each dc row) 3 dc in ch 3 space across row to the 3 chain loop (point) work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in loop, 3 dc in next 3 ch sp, across row ending with 4 dc in last single crochet, turn. Your shawl will gradually form a natural curve at the ends as double crochet rows are added.
Row 5:   ch 1, sc between first 2 dc, chain 3, skipping 3 dc, work a sc between the dc stitches forming groups of 3 dc clusters, to the point.  In the point work sc, ch 3, sc all in the same space, ch 3, continuing to form 3 dc clusters to end of row, ending with ch 3, sc between last 2 dc, turn.
Box Stitch Shawl 2

Repeat: rows 4 and 5 until you have 28 double crochet rows. 
For additional Photo tutorial on how to get started:
http://idealdelusions.blogspot.com/p/for-this-tutorial-i-changed-colors-only.html

Depending on your choice of border you may wish to work row 5 one more time to take advantage of the 3 ch loops as a base for the border.

I love a basic fringe for a border; of course, as always, you may add the border of your choice or none at all. 

On this shawl I wanted to make it a bit more fancy so I adapted the border from Doris Chan’s “All Shawl” which can be found in her free pattern on Ravelry. 
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/all-shawl 

If you wish to add the same border I did, you need the All Shawl pattern by Doris Chan.
If you observe the pattern you will notice it alternates shell patterns with pineapples. 
I ended my shawl on a single crochet row so I would have the chain 3 loops to work in, instead of the double crochet stitches. 
I wanted a pineapple stitch to be at the center of the point, so starting at the point, instead of counting  as 1, 2, 3, I counted the point loop as a pineapple, space, shell, space, pineapple, space, shell, space pineapple, etc.. until I got to the beginning of the row.
It so happened on my shawl the first loop would be a shell.  I then began on the second row of the border  (see the  mark for row 2 on the left side of the graph on the top of page 9 on the All Shall Pattern)
I followed that graph and I chained 3, ((but I worked a double crochet in the same stitch (see red arrow) on my photo below because I wanted a solid edge)) then I worked chain 1, double crochet shell, ch 1, skipped a loop, triple crochet set, (to start pineapple) skipped a loop, worked a dc shell, skipped a loop...repeat to the point.
In the point I worked the triple crochet set for the pineapple, then starting up the other side I skipped the next ch 3 loop and worked a shell, skip a loop, start triple crochets for the  pineapple.   When I got to the end of the row I chained 1 and worked 2 double crochet in the last stitch.  There you have the base for the border.  NOTE: If the the base for the border seems a bit tight for your shawl, try putting 2 chain stitches between each shell and pineapple stitch instead of just 1 as you work across each row.

Follow the graph rows 3 – 6 working shell in shell stitches and pineapple stitches required for each pineapple to complete your border.
Page 8 gives a close up detail of how the finished pattern should look.


I received an email that said, in part: “I finally got it worked out but not starting with a shell but a space. I am glad I counted the pattern back to the start and not assumed mine was the same as yours. I took advantage and made my edging border begin with ch 3,dc,dc, in the first 3 stitches. Then did a shell in the next loop. It worked out great and the pineapple hit the point loop. I finished the row with 3 dc in the last 3 stitches. That really gave me a nice straight edge for the border all the way through. I found the graph a bit confusing as well.  How you applied it to your pattern made perfect sense to me.  


IMG_4490
This shawl is displayed spread out on a standard double size bed.
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This is the same shawl worked in Red Heart Super Saver.  14 oz brown, 7 oz black, with a bit of both left over.  I used U.S. size I-9 Susan Bates Hook (my favorite size)

This is what I consider a heavy duty working shawl.   The shy fellow here is my dear heart and he is the one who puts up with all my antics and supports me in all my endeavors even when that means holding up my latest project for the camera.


Shawl is displayed on a Queen sized bed.
I love a deep swishy fringe so I cut 18 inch lengths and used 2 strands in each stitch, alternating the brown and black.

This little gadget is what I call a shawl button loop. 
I make them to match all my shawls of this type.
I use 2 strands of the same yarn and make an “I  cord” about 8 inches long. 
Then I make a bulky knot in each end.  I used a Knitting Knobby to make the cord.
A Knitting Knobby is a new gadget used for plain old fashioned spool knitting.
The ends can be pushed through the larger spaces in the front of the shawl to hold it closed.  If your stitch is tight enough you can just poke the ends through on each side like a button.  If your stitch is loose you can tie it or run it through twice.  Or if you prefer you can make it much longer and use it to "lace up" the front of your shawl (like a shoelace) giving a poncho effect. 


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This is the same shawl and the third and last view for this post.  I selected what I thought was a 16 ounce “mill end” bag of powder blue sports weight yarn, that I purchased at A. C. Moore for this version of the shawl.  I used a simple “V” stitch border with a picot in the last round to soften the edge and it was worked with a size “J” Susan Bates hook.  I like to use a large hook with a light yarn for a softer, flexible feel to the finished item.  I do have to crochet slower as it is more difficult to maintain an even tension with an oversized hook..
I am delighted how it came out and also surprised.  I expected it to be smaller than the others because of a lighter weight yarn but it is in fact larger.  Why ?  I didn’t know so I weighed the shawl.  It would appear I acquired a very generous mill end bag that was actually 18 ounces and not the expected 16.  The shawl is about 47 inches from the shoulder to the point and it is about 94 inches wide.  I do not have a place where I can spread it out flat and take a photo of it but I did get a few photos and close-ups.


This shawl can also be made in any size from a 
shoulderette to as large as you like. 
I, myself, love an oversized shawl as I like generous arm coverage. 

One thing I would like to say in favor of a deep shawl, such as this one, 
the wearer can lift it to cover her head and still have 
full coverage of her arms and shoulders.



When the shawl is as large as you want it you can add the border of your choice.
To make the border on this shawl, I stopped the basic shawl pattern on a single crochet and chain stitch row, reference (row 5), turn..

Border Pattern Stitch   double crochet, chain 2, dc in same space.  “V” stitch made

Row 1  Ch 3, dc in first stitch (for a solid edge) dc, ch 2, dc in the next 3 chain loop (counts as first “V” st,) work 1 “V” st in each 3 chain space to point. Work (“V” st, chain 3,  “V” st)  in the 3 chain loop at the point, continue, working 1 “V” stitch in each 3 chain loop to end, work 2 dc in last stitch.  Turn

Row 2:   Ch 3, dc in first dc,  “V” stitch in center of each “V” stitch, to point. Work “V” st, chain 3,  “V” st  in the center space of the point,  “V” st in each “V” st to end.  2 dc in last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 to make your border the width you like  (This shawl has a border 5 rows deep)

Picot stitch:  Double crochet in center of “V” st, chain 3, slip st in first chain of chain 3, dc in same “V” stitch = "V" st with picot on top..

Final round  Work "V" st with picot, in the center of each “V” st of the previous row, working  (dc, picot, dc, picot, dc, picot, dc)  in the center chain space of the point, work “V” st with picot in the center of each “V” st to end, 2 dc in last stitch.
 To help you plan ahead, this shawl had 35 double crochet rows, 35 sc / chain stitch rows and 5 rows “V” stitches for the border.  When I finished this shawl I had only about 7 inches of yarn left, it was that close. 



Yes, I know I said the blue shawl would be the last one I posted for this pattern but today I want to talk about “Caron Simply Soft Party Yarn”.   Since I did add a little something extra to the design I thought I would just sneak it in on this same post. The color of this shawl is Silver Sparkle but there is a nice selection of other colors and I loved working with this soft, shiny yarn.  I think it made an elegant shawl.  Modest but has a discreet sparkle that can be worn day or evening.   This shawl is a bit smaller and is more for dress up than a heavy duty working shawl.

I used 4 Skeins (3 oz. 85 G) Caron Simply Soft, Silver Sparkle and a Size I Susan Bates Hook

It is hard to capture the sparkle with a camera unless you get the light just so.  I did the best I could do but it does not do justice the luxurious feel of this yarn.  You really need to see and touch it.


I worked the pattern until I had completed the first 5 rows of double crochet groups.  On the next row instead of single crochet, I worked a double crochet and chain stitch row.  
So the row would be worked as ch 3, dc between first 2 dc, chain 3, skipping 3 dc, work a dc between the dc stitches forming groups of 3 dc clusters, to the point.  In the point work dc, ch 3, dc all in the same space, ch 3, continuing to form 3 dc clusters to end of row, ending with ch 3, dc between last 2 dc, turn.
The following row, I resumed the pattern of double crochet groups stitches and worked as per the pattern. 

On this shawl I put my space row after each set of 5 double crochet rows.  To do this  I inserted the row of double crochet and chain 3 stitches instead of single crochet and chain 3, then resume the pattern.  The height of the double crochet stitches are what make the spaces.  You can put the spaces rows anywhere you want them.  


The border on the Gray Sparkle Shawl is also an adaption of the border created by Doris Chan for her All Shawl Pattern.  It is the same as the border on the first shawl shown on this post. 
The information and link and my adaption notes are listed above with the pattern instructions.


Pattern/Photos copyrighted ©

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For those of you that have considered choosing a variegated yarn for this project, this beautiful interpretation of the So Simple Box Stitch Shawl was stitched by B. L. Pomroy-Martinez who has generously allow me to showcase her work on my site.  She created this amazing shawl in:
Red Heart Super Saver print yarn “Monet”  E300.0310 
Please double click this photo to enlarge