The Best Way to Hand Wind a Ball of Yarn

The new yarn winders are creating quite a stir and I love mine however not everyone has one or even has need for one. 

 With the advance to “Center Pull Skeins” the art of winding a hank or even a skein of yarn into a ball is no longer a priority for many and appears to have become a lost art..
When yarn is wound at the mill the machines maintain a preadjusted tension to create a smooth even Skein. With a yarn winder it is easy to control your tension and mimic that smooth wind into a lovely cake.  But winding by hand is a whole different craft and many new artists today do not realize part of the Art of Crochet is learning how to correctly roll a ball of yarn.

This post is not to discuss the reason we wish to hand wind our yarn into a ball nor the preparation required in order to be able to do so.  This is strictly on how to correctly hand wind your yarn to maintain the quality for future use.
Yarn is flexible and resilient, it stretches and snaps back.  Pull it hard and see how skinny it gets before it breaks.  Many yarn’s today are treated with sizing chemicals to help them hold their shape. 

Even if you do not need or want to pre-wind your yarn, at some point in time a center pull skein may eventually collapse into itself or you will finish your project, creating a need to wind the remainder, perhaps into a ball.

I searched the internet looking to see the recommended method for winding a ball of yarn and I did not agree with what I found.  All of the methods are similar but I did not see one I considered correct in regard to maintaining the viability of the yarn.  So this is the way I do it when I am not where I can access my yarn winder.

I am right handed so I start to wind on the fingertips of my left hand.  When I have about 20 wraps, I pulled the wrapped yarn from my fingertips  and lay it on my extended fingers.

Using my thumb to hold it in place, repeat the wrap, over the yarn and my fingertips. After about 20 wraps I gently slide my fingers out and repeat the process.

 It does not matter if you wrap over 1, 2 or 3 fingers, the ideas is to create some “snap back” space so your yarn will not be drawn to its full potential and have to stay that way for long periods of time.

I continue to repeat the turn, wrap and reposition of the now growing ball on my fingers, always wrapping around both the yarn and my fingertips, until the loose yarn is exhausted.

Then taking a crochet hook I slide it under a few strands of yarn and pull the working end of the yarn under and though to keep it from coming undone.

The end result should be a soft squishy ball of yarn that will flex in your hand if you squeeze it.  If your ball of yarn is hard, you have wound it too tightly, stretched it too much and if stored for a long time, you may find it has lost its resilience and will not preform the way you expected. 

Many of us maintain a rather large stash and I believe it is worth the time and the money to store our yarn in the best way to keep its viability intact .

Related Post Link  What I Learned About Yarn Winders

PYJAMA PARTY

This is a plain pattern. No sequence of fancy stitches outstanding unique tedious features. This is my review about the yarn I chose “Bernat Baby Coordinates.”



I fell in love with the texture at first touch. The silky feel, the glow, the softness and I purchased a huge amount in all colors. I have made many afghans, hats and shawls with it, some you will find on my blog, but now I am coming to the end of my supply. Yes, I still love it and will still use it but with So many new yarns out there, I am afraid my wants expand but my available storage does not. So these next few afghans will be using the last of it. I’m dedicating it’s former space to something different but at this point I am not sure what.

My only complaint about this yarn is, most color options are too pale for my taste. Parents always seem to like Pastels but Babies like Bright. I myself need some bright colors or I lose interest. I use baby yarn for many projects, not just babies and I sometimes find where the yarn itself may be perfect the color is all wrong.
In fact the very hardest part of getting this pattern posted was trying to get the true colors to show on the computer.



I really love the color “Pyjama Party” but, where I shop, I only found it at one time and I got 2 skeins but then I could never find any coordinating color. So this little afghan is named for its inspirational colors.

Materials
2 skeins Lemon Custard
2 skeins Pyjama Party or colors of your choice.
Susan Bates size I-9 hook
Written in US terms

Follow Basic Round Ripple Pattern applying the color sequence and variations as listed below.

The entire afghan is worked in double crochet however, I added the option of turning the last 3 rounds into a simple border. Instructions on this page.

Pattern Link here: Basic Round Ripple Afghan

Finished size as written is about 52 inches from point to point depending on your tension. What I call toddler to teen size this is a quick answer for that baby shower gift.



Border Alternate detail
Round 32: Round 32: Worked in alternating double crochet and popcorn stitches, count from the point to the valley to determine which of the two stitches to start with to be sure to have popcorn stitches in the point. Point is worked (popcorn, ch 1, popcorn, ch 1. Popcorn)

I used 4 double crochet to create each popcorn stitch. It makes it fuller than a puff stitch but I like it a bit less puffy that a 5 double Crochet popcorn. You may of course work it however you wish.
Round 33: Double crochet in each double Crochet and popcorn stitch around, point work (dc, ch 1,dc) in each of the chain one spaces in the point
Round 34: Double crochet in each stitch, working an increase shell in the points.


I believe the Border is a gender friendly design and you can use the colors of your choice.

 

AMERICANA

One thing on my bucket list was to do a patriotic afghan.  I love the USA and I love red, white and blue but everybody does flags don’t they ??  America is so much more than that.  This is my expression of freedom.  

For this project I used the basic Round Ripple Afghan Pattern
http://idealdelusions.blogspot.com/p/basic-round-ripple-afghan-pattern.html




Red Heart Super Saver
This pattern has two endings…so you may wish to read it over before you purchase your yarn. 
Size as is displayed measures about 58 inches point to point.
Please read notes after round 30 before you buy your yarn
3943 Americana 3 or 4 (5oz.)  (check dye lot)
387 Soft navy 1 or 2 (7 oz.) skeins
??? WW unidentified 1 (7 oz.) Gold color from my stash, your choice.

Everyone who crochets has their own personal tension level and due to the fluctuation of the variegated yarn I cannot promise you that projects made from these same materials and the same pattern will be identical in appearance.

Note:
Maintain the increase/even rounds basic pattern format throughout except for exceptions noted.
Join all rounds

Rounds 1- 15: Following the Basic Round Ripple Pattern, on this blog, the first 15 full rounds will use up almost all of the first skein of Americana.  

Round 16: Change to gold, work in Single Crochet stitches, following the increase/even rounds format. NOTE: If this happens to be a round where you DO NOT increase, work (1 sc, ch3, 1 sc) in all) points so it will not be too tight. 

Round 17: Change to Soft navy, Work in double crochet maintaining pattern increase/even rounds format

Round 18: Your option, you can work a solid round or a skipped stitch round.  I did a skipped stitch round and to do a skipped stitch round you must first determine your starting stitch.  This requires starting from the point and counting to the bottom, because you don’t want your skipped stitch to fall in the point  You can place your skips where you like them.  I worked a Repeat *(1 dc, 1 dc, ch1, sk 1 st, ) across to the point.  In the point work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) the second side of the point should mirror image the first side so you end in the correct stitch.


Round 19: Work in double crochet, maintain pattern increase/even rounds format, work 1 double crochet in each stitch and also in each chain one space if you chose to skip stitches on your last round.

Round 20:  Repeat round 16  Gold

Rounds 21 - 25: Change to Americana work pattern format in double crochet.  This will use most of the second skein of Americana

Round 26: Repeat round 16  Gold

Round 27:  Repeat round 17  Navy

Round 28:  Repeat round 18 (your option) Navy

Round 29:  Repeat round 19  Navy

Round 30: Repeat round 16  Gold
NOTE:  At this point some of you may wish to stop here as your project is now approximately 40 to 42 inches point to point.  You can leave it as it is, skip down to work the border I created or use any border you like. 
If you are ending here and decide to do the crab stitch edge I would suggest you work it with the Gold as round 30.
For those who wish to venture further follow me
Rounds 31-32–33:  Change to Americana, work in double crochet increase/even rounds pattern sequence. These three rounds will use most of your third skein of Americana

************

Round 34: Repeat round 16 Gold

Round 35-36-37 Repeat Rounds 16-17-18

OR

Round 35  Attach Navy.  If you followed the pattern exactly as I made mine, this round is where your first skein of Navy will run out.     

Count from the point down to determine which will be your stating stitch. Alternating stitch pattern your option.  Because Popcorn stitches are labor intensive, I worked 2 dc between them..*(1 dc, 1 dc, 1 popcorn st) making sure to start so I will have popcorn stitches in the points. You may chose to alternate one for one or even put 3 dc between popcorn…your choice.

Points are worked (1 popcorn st. ch 2, 1 popcorn stitch) For this round, you may have to disregard the pattern sequence, to keep the points crisp, work the popcorn stitches in the points and be sure to always mirror image the second side to match the first.

NOTE:  I always use 4 double crochet not 5 when I create my popcorn stitches for blankets but they did not have a symbol for 4 stitch popcorns.  Your choice.  Popcorn stitches are labor intensive.

Round 36- 37-38: This is your last skein of Americana.  The rounds are worked in double crochet following the basic pattern sequence.  I hate knots in my work so you may notice I did not carry part of any of the variegated skeins to the next round.  I don’t like the way it looks with a variegated yarn as it breaks up the color run and is to hard to blend. 

So I just completed as many full rounds as I could, in this case it was 3. but if I were almost to the end of a round and I did not have my Crochet obsessions I would probably  tie on the remainder of another skein instead of frogging a whole round.  A bit of tweaking and you could surely match it up.  But knowing my habits, I don’t play yarn chicken and I quit when I am ahead.    

Border: chose any you like, or create your own.

I wanted a braid look to the border and worked all 3 rounds in Single crochet

Round 39: Repeat round 16  Gold

Round 40:  Using Navy, repeat round 16 OR Second option: follow pattern sequence. but work double crochet instead of single

Round 41: Using Gold, repeat round 16 in Single Crochet

And if you find you have too much yarn left over you can always make a matching pillow

http://idealdelusions.blogspot.com/p/retro-round-ripple-pillow.html

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Monet and Lace

This post is not just about this afghan but more so for the border but since it is here I will start with the information for making it.  First of all it is made from my Basic Round Ripple Afghan Pattern which you can find on this blog here
This one was made with a size I-9 Susan Bates hook and Red Heart Super Saver yarn in the following colors and amounts:  Monet (4 – 5 OZ skeins), Light Periwinkle (1 – 7 OZ skein) and Medium Purple (2 – 7 OZ  skeins) 
As written it measures about 66 inches point to point

Tip:  I make my afghans with a NO DYE LOT yarn so I do not have to worry about getting more if I run out or decide to make a matching pillow.

Rounds 1 through 5 Monet

Rounds 6 & 7 Medium Purple
for the rest I worked the variegated color rounds in groups of 6 and the solid color rounds in groups of 3 till I got the size I wanted.  You may choose your own color sequence.
When your project is as large as you planned it is time to decided on the border you want. For this afghan I could not decide on a “V” stitch border or a shell stitch border so why not have both ?



BORDER
Border Stitches used are
 “V” stitch: (dc in stitch, ch 1, dc in same stitch).
Shell Stitch: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc all in same stitch).
Wide Shell Stitch (2dc, ch 2, 2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all in the    same stitch        Total 6 dc and two ch 2 spaces)
Rnd 1.  The first round work. (“V” stitch in the starting st, sk 2 sts, “V” stitch in the next st) around. Select your starting stitch so you will be sure to have a “V” st in each point.
NOTES: To determine which is your starting stitch, count from the point to the valley.  The valley at the bottom of the point is the place to make any adjustments.
This example shows 8 stitches at the valley.  1’s & 2’s are all skipped stitches, but if you try to add a “V” stitch in the designated spot it will be too wide and not lay flat. So we use double crochet instead.  That is one half on each side.  /\  This is just a method of tweaking  your stitches to make them fit.  The center 1/2 are the stitches you always skip at the bottom of the point.

The second round is where you set up the alternate pattern of stitches. On this round all points all must have a *Wide shell stitch. 
Rnd 2: Count from the point to the valley to determine if you need to start with a “V” stitch or a shell stitch.  Working in the existing “V” stitches, alternating 1 shell st with 1 “V” st to the point. At the point work a Wide Shell Stitch (2dc, ch 2, 2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) then continue alternating “V” sts and Shell Stitches around
This means if you have a “V” stitch as the last stitch before the point, and a wide shell stitch in the point, you will have a “V” stitch as the first stitch after the point.

The rest of the rounds will be worked “V” stitch over “V” st and Shell over Shell exceptions being the points, where extra stitches must be arranged so it will lay flat.

Rnd 3: Work alternate stitch pattern to the point, In each point you will work a (shell stitch in the first 2ch space, ch 2, then work a shell stitch in the next 2ch space), then continuing around as per established pattern.
Rnd 4:  Work in established pattern (“V” stitch over “V” st and Shell over Shell) to the point. In the point work a shell in each of the three 2 ch spaces. (shell in shell, shell between shells and shell in the 2nd shell.  Continue pattern sequence around.

Rnd 5 
Working in pattern sequence work final round with “V” st over each “V”st and shell over each shell.  I like to work my final round of “V” and Shell stitches with a picot stitch.
Another option is to work them plain.  Your choice.