Retro Canning Jar Ring Trivet
(without the canning jar rings)
Canning Jar Ring Trivets were very popular in the 40's through the early 60's
I believe the reason the old Canning Jar Ring pattern dropped out of popularity was because of the decline in home canning thereby reducing the availability of canning jar rings. For a while the pattern struggled to stay alive with the substitution of plastic 6-pack rings but now they are also a thing from a different era. In remembrance of this old pattern my trivet is made without the use of canning jar or plastic 6-pack rings.
This trivet can be made in many sizes depending on the number of rings used. I make two sizes, Small which uses 6 rings and Medium which uses 8 or 9 rings. (9 so I can use 3 colors of rings) This pattern is written for one with 6 rings but the pattern is basically the same for any size. The number of rings and the number of stitches on the connection chain are the only difference. The larger trivet does leave a larger hole in the center which I do not like so I also added instruction on how to work a center insert to close that hole.
This pattern works up quickly and is another amazing stash-buster which is always a favorite of mine.
This pattern works up quickly and is another amazing stash-buster which is always a favorite of mine.
Less than 4 oz, WW weight or rug yarn acrylic or cotton in colors of your choice
Size I - 9 hook or J for heavier yarn weights
Size 8 to 9 inches at the widest point for 6 ring using WW yarn
Pattern written in American terms / adjust for UK
Ring:
Chain 18, (or 20 ) being careful not to twist chain, sl st in first ch to join. Do not turn Ch 3, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each stitch around 36 (or 40 sts) join to top of ch 3. End off, work in ends.
Using the colors of your choice, make 6 (8 or 9) rings according to the size trivet you wish to create.
NOTE: This connection chain length is for the 6 ring trivet. A longer chain must be worked for a 9 ring trivet. The length of the chain is not critical as long as it will work through all rings and be stitched together without drawing up the rings too tightly. Better a tiny bit loose than too tight.
Connection Chain: (for 6 ring trivet)
If you know how to work a foundation double crochet chain, ch 40 sts. If you want to learn how to work a foundation double crochet chain ( fdc) tutorial here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGPkRHF0rUw
If you do not know how to work a foundation chain, ch 42, dc in 3th st from hook and each st across, end off , leave long tail for sewing the ends together later. When working with the fdc, I don't usually cut my yarn until the weaving is done so I can add or remove stitches. I just put a paper clip in the last stitch to hold it. Plastic or plastic coated paper clips make excellent stitch markers .
TIP: It may help to weave all the rings together in a straight line, pinning the ends of the connection chain together, then pull the trivet into its round shape before sewing the connection chain.
When all the rings are interlocked, sew the 2 ends of the connection ring together to secure the circle.
Gently pull circle into shape and turn individual rings so the joins will be hidden under the overlap.
Edging (or finish with edging of your choice)
Round 1 For the Cameo trivet at the top of the page, attach yarn with a sc in any ring and work 1 sc in next 11 sts, skip to next ring and work 1 sc in next 12 sts, skip to next ring, join all rings together in this manner, join, sl st in first sc..
Round 2 Work sc, ch 2 *(sc in next st, ch 2) around skipping over the center loop, between each ring and ending with sl st in first sc.
Note: I prefer to join my rings with single crochet and work a border from there. If you prefer, you may work a round of double crochet instead. Once the rings are connected and the shape is formed you may work the border you like. This trivet is also very nice with a reverse single crochet also known as the crab stitch worked as the ring connection round.
Note: I prefer to join my rings with single crochet and work a border from there. If you prefer, you may work a round of double crochet instead. Once the rings are connected and the shape is formed you may work the border you like. This trivet is also very nice with a reverse single crochet also known as the crab stitch worked as the ring connection round.
Alternate Double Crochet Border
For the 3 color connection chain on this trivet, ch 40, followed by 2 rows of sl sts in alternating colors.
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Round 1: Attach yarn where the outside of the rings overlap, putting the hook front to back through one stitch on each ring, pull yarn through and ch 3 (counts as dc), work picot in top of ch 3, dc in same stitch, "V" st with picot made. *(skip 1 stitch, dc, picot, dc in next st) 5 more times. (6 "V" sts, in same ring). Where next ring overlaps, work dc, picot, dc, through one loop of both rings to join rings together. Work around, being sure to join rings at overlap, ending with a slip st in top of chain 3.
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8 Ring Trivet
Working the same as for the 6 ring trivet, and adjusting the length of the connection chain you may make an 8 ring trivet if you only want to use one or two colors for the rings. The 8 ring trivet is almost as large as the 9 ring trivet but you must have a number of rings divisible by 3 if you want to use 3 colors for your rings in your trivet. Instructions for 9 ring trivet follow..
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9 Ring Trivet
Make a 50 stitch connection chain in the method you prefer as described above.
Weave the rings together in the same manner as for the 6 ring trivet and sew the ends together.
Shape trivet and turn rings to conceal the joins under the overlap.
Single crochet around the around the outside edge of the rings to lock them in place.
Use same border as for the 6 ring trivet or add border of your choice.
On the 9 ring trivet you will notice the larger hole in the center of the finished trivet. If you like it that way, sc a connection round on the inside of hole moving from ring to ring to hold the rings in place and you are finished. I am not a fan of large holes in the center of trivets. There are two easy ways to close the hole. I have included instructions for both.
Method 1: To close the hole: (working on right side)
Make a "magic circle" (A.K.A. magic ring, slip ring, slip loop )
Tutorial can be found here http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Tutorials/How-to-Crochet-the-Magic-Circle#
or on You Tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHYVutk2iYY
Slip stitch in magic circle, *(chain 3, drop loop from hook, insert hook front to back in center stitch at top of any ring, pick up loop and pull through, yarn over and complete the slip stitch, ch 3, sl st in magic circle,) repeat from * around each of the 9 rings ending with ch 3, sl st in magic ring, end off. Pull yarn tails to back and work in ends.
Method 2 To close the hole (working on right side)
Chain 4, *(drop loop from hook, insert hook front to back in center stitch at top of any ring, pick up loop and pull through, yarn over and complete the slip stitch, ch 3, sl st in first st (beginning chain), chain 3, repeat from * around each of the 9 rings ending with ch 3, sl st in beginning chain, end off. Pull yarn tails to back and work in ends. This method will still leave a hole in the center but it's a small hole.
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